12.29.2013

Christmas in Dodoma




Decorating our gathering space.
After our retreat in Arusha the four volunteers from Dar came back to Dodoma to with us to celebrate Christmas. The first step was to decorate our house and new Christmas tree. Using the DIY ornaments that my community mates had received in care packages, we made reindeer ornaments and pompom Santas and hung paper snowflakes cut from old European magazines, all the while singing and dancing to an eccentric mix of holiday music. With our house decorated, we were ready for Christmas Eve.

The marketplace on Christmas Eve
The eight of us spent Christmas Eve shopping for food supplies in the market. The market was packed to its fullest. People filled the aisles and walkways, everyone gently pushing or elbowing their way through in order to reach their desired food stand, young boys appeared around every corner offering to carry the increasingly heavy shopping bags in return for a tip, while faint greetings of “Heriya Krismasi!” were spoken as some sellers and customers finished their transactions. We stopped for a some avocado-mango juice and a quick bite before continuing on to the outside market. Here we picked up our vitenge that a church friend had sewn into outfits for us. The streets were filled even in this market as people picked up new bow ties and shoes while sellers wandered about trying to sell Christmas trees and ornaments. When we came back home the cooking commenced: guacamole (made from some of the biggest avocados I have ever seen), mango salsa (made from mangoes that were the same size as the avocados), hummus (pureed by hand), chapati (made from, um, wheat flour), and beans (made with spices of sorts...). After feasting we went to Midnight Mass and found the church adorned with gold and white banners. Children sang and dance in unison throughout the Mass, filling the aisles and encouraging the congregation to sing and sway with them. I have found a new appreciation for the Christmas hymn, “Angels We Have Heard On High” and its Latin refrain because it was the only Christmas song I was able to sing along to, as all the others were in Swahili. The church holds about 500 people, and this night it was packed completely! Making introductions are a tradition in Tanzania. When you are a guest within a group of people you will probably be asked to introduce yourself. So, at the end of Mass on Christmas Eve the priest publicly welcomed us to the community, and to properly receive this welcome we, each of us, introduced ourselves at the pulpit, in KiSwahili to the entire congregation. It was horrifying! But a lesson learned to always be ready with short KiSwahili greeting for times like these.
Dodoma JVs

On Christmas morning we went to Mass at Village of Hope, an orphanage run by Sisters of the Precious Blood for children who are HIV positive. After Mass we planned to play with the kids until lunch time, not knowing that we would be competing for their attention with their Christmas presents. The priest distributed batteries after Mass, and after that we knew we were defeated. After all, what kid can resist the joy of battery-operated toys? Instead we gave some love to the babies in the dispensary until it was time to go. We had another feast on Christmas Day, opened treasured gifts of chocolate bars gifted to us from our German community mate, and played games until we couldn't stand the evening mosquitoes any longer.

Christmas in Dodoma looked quite a bit different than past Christmases in the Midwest. There were not any mall Santas, or carolers, or aisles of red and green in every store. There wasn't even any snow. But Christmas here was free from the pull of consumerism that so easily absorbs the lives of many at Christmastime. I saw just one house decorated with Christmas lights and it looked quite absurd sticking out from the other dark houses in the neighborhood, shopkeepers did not order special products that are relevant only to this season of the year, and I did not see a single roll of gift wrap or ribbon. This year I found myself being so easily grateful for the things that matter most: God, family, friends, and food. The decorations, the lights, the presents...none of these were there to distract from the simple joys that Holidays bring and the miracle of Christmas that rests in our hearts.
Our Christmas tree
Wishing all of you a very merry holiday season and happy new year!

In peace,
MLS